DIY Radon Fan Replacement: A Step-By-Step Guide
Introduction:
Recently, we were called out to replace a radon fan, a Radonaway RP-145, installed in December 2016. It had developed a loud bearing noise, prompting the homeowners to seek a replacement. In this blog post, we will guide you through the DIY radon fan replacement process, empowering you to tackle this task on your own if you feel up to the challenge.
Gather the Tools:
Before starting the replacement process, gather the necessary tools. You’ll need a Phillips screwdriver, channel log or pliers, a flat-blade screwdriver, a 5/16 nut driver, and a new radon fan.
Select a New Radon Fan:
We are replacing this customer’s RadonAway RP145 with a Fantech RN2, which is similar in performance.
We created a radon fan replacement guide to help you find the best replacement fan. We recommend using the direct replacement for your existing radon fan when possible. This will decrease the need for radon system modifications. If the fan model is no longer manufactured, the manufacturer’s recommended replacement model will be listed. This is a guide, and all specifications should be verified before purchase. If you purchase from the links, we do earn a commission.
FanTech Fan Replacement |
|
| Existing Fan | Replacement Fan |
| Rn 1 | Rn 1 |
| HP 2133 | Rn 1 |
| FR 100 | Rn 1 |
| Rn 2 | Rn 2 |
| HP 2190/Q | Rn 2 |
| HP 190 | Rn 2 |
| HP 175 | Rn 2 |
| Rn 2EC | Rn 2EC** |
| HP 190SLQ | Rn 2SL |
| Rn 2SL | Rn 2SL |
| Rn 3 | Rn 3 |
| HP 220 | Rn 3 |
| FR 150 | Rn 3 |
| FR 160 | Rn 3 |
| Rn 4EC | Rn 4EC (**) |
| FR 200 | Rn 4EC (**) |
| FR 225 | Rn 4EC (**) |
| FR 250 | Rn 4EC (**) |
**EC models dial suction in with built-in speed control. Note the current dial setting and set the new fan to the same setting.
RadonAway Fan Replacement |
|
| Existing Fan | Replacement Fan |
| GX3 | GX3 |
| GX4 | GX4 |
| GX5 | GX5 |
| EC6 | EC6* |
| RP140 | RP140 |
| RP145 | RP145 |
| RP260 | RP260 |
| RP265 | RP265 |
| RP380 | RP380 |
| XP151 | XP151 |
| XP201 | XP201 |
| XR261 | XR261 |
| GP201 | GP301 |
| GP301 | GP301 |
| GP401 | GP501 |
| GP501 | GP501 |
| GP301C | GP301 |
| GP501C | GP501 |
| SF180 | SF180 |
*Use Code Jesse for 5% off your first order
AMG Festa Fan Replacement |
|
| Existing Fan | Replacement Fan |
| Spirit | Spirit |
| Maverick | Maverick |
| Patriot | Patriot |
| Prowler | Prowler |
| Eagle | Eagle |
| Eagle Extreme | Eagle Extreme |
| Goliath | Eagle Extreme |
| Force | Force |
| Hawk | Hawk |
| Legend | Legend |
| Legend Extreme | Legend Extreme |
| Fury | Fury |
Other Accessories:
- Power Cord Kit
- Rubber Couplers
- 90-degree Connector with O-ring
- Radon Test Kit
- EcoQube Radon Monitor
- Noise Suppressor
Disconnect the Old Radon Fan:
Begin by disconnecting the power supply to the existing radon fan. Depending on your setup, you can either shut off the breaker in the basement that powers the fan or unplug it from the outlet. If your fan is hardwired, you will start by removing the cover from the electric box on the fan. To do this, remove the Phillips screws and pop the cover off.
Carefully disconnect the wires and then take apart the electrical connections. There may be a nut you need to loosen; this is where a flat-blade screwdriver can come in handy. Pull the wires out of the hole once the wires are disconnected, and move on to the next step.
Remove the Fan and Rubber Couplers:
Next, loosen the rubber couplers that connect the fan to the piping using a 5/16 nut driver. Remove the old radon fan from its location.
Install the New Radon Fan:
Install the new radon fan in the same location where the old one was removed. Slide the rubber coupler up to position the fan in place, and slide the coupler back down to hold the fan in place.
Wire New Radon Fan:
Thread the wire back into the fan. Secure the nut back in place to hold the wiring secure.
If you have a radon fan in an attic, you again will not need to do this step; you can plug the fan back into the outlet since it is not hardwired.
Reconnect the black wire to the black and red terminal (depending on the fan model) and the white wire to the blue terminal (since FanTech fans don’t use a white connection). Remember to secure the electrical connections using a small screwdriver and the wire nuts. The FanTech fan does not use a ground, so we used a wire nut to cap off that wire.
Test the Fan:
Once the wires are connected, line up the wires to the secure fittings in the box and ensure everything is tucked back in. Test the fan before putting the cover back on to verify proper functionality and airflow. Then replace the fan electric box cover and secure it in place with the stainless-steel Phillips screws included.
Level the Fan:
It’s advisable to level the fan to improve fan longevity and prevent water pooling. You can use a level to ensure it’s both plumb and level in both directions as you tighten the rubber couplers back in place. You might also need to loosen and reposition the rubber couplers for a snug fit.
Perform a Radon Test:
If you haven’t performed a radon test recently, conducting one after the fan replacement is a good idea to ensure the mitigation system’s effectiveness. We recommend the Airchek Short-Term Radon Test Kit (if you purchase from the link, we earn a commission). For best results, ship it to the lab using UPS or FedEx.
Conclusion:
Replacing a radon fan is a task that can be tackled on your own, provided you have the right tools and a bit of technical know-how. If you’re unsure about the process or if you prefer professional assistance, don’t hesitate to reach out to radon mitigation experts like us. Proper installation and maintenance of your radon mitigation system plays a vital role in safeguarding your well-being and that of your loved ones. Stay safe, and thank you for reading our DIY radon fan replacement guide!
